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Making a Pembroke Greathelm
Materials Needed:
o sheet steel (16 or 18 gauge)
o a number of steel, brass or copper rivets
o dense foam rubber
o heavy fabric (such as denim, canvas, or leather)
o durable adhesive (such as contact cement, hot melt glue, or epoxy)
This variation on the greathelm, currently referred to as the "Pembroke Helm", is a simple four-piece assembly, and is a good design for a first helmet. As with all helmets and armor, I strongly suggest you cut and shape the pattern using plastic before cutting into and punching the metal. The pattern displayed is only a rough sketch and some altering of the final pieces may be necessary.
The pattern is rather self-explanatory, once you have a well-fitting plastic version of the four pattern pieces, trace the dimensions onto the steel and cut using a metal saw or a cutting torch, and punch holes where noted for the rivets. Note the areas on the above photograph where the holes for breaths are punched, and punch the holes into the visor portion of the metal. Be sure to file down all the rough edges using a metal file or electric grinder.
The
following method was suggested to me for creasing the metal: using
the vice on a workbench, position a pair of 2 x 4s so that a space
slightly less than an inch is between them the long way. Position
the steel so that the portion to be creased is placed directly over
the gap. If using thicker metal heat it slowly with a torch to soften
it, then using a chisel or long metal wedge (this could be a triangular
cross-sectioned piece of metal, or a thick piece of metal about
the size of a yardstick) and hammer it into the metal, forcing a
long, thin dent into the sheet steel. Make sure that the dent is
even, and you don't puncture the steel (especially if using a chisel).
The portions at the top of section A should be hammered down into
right angles, as they will be attaching the top of the helmet. Carefully
form the helmet and rivet together, overlapping where necessary.
Section C (this is the metal "spine" that shall run up the back
of the helmet) should be attached to one side of sections A and
B, then connect A and B, close the helm into it's "barrel" shape
and connect the other side of C, then connect the top portion (section
D).
For a secure fit, cement the foam pieces into the inside of the
helmet, and trim with a scissors until it fits the contours of your
head and face comfortably and securely. Cement your heavy fabric
down, covering all the foam areas.
All materials at this site ( mountainfreehold.org/arts/mmp/ ) are Copyright © 1997 - 2007 Kevin Montanaro unless otherwise noted. Use of any materials contained herein are subject to stated terms or written permission. Address any questions to Dante D'Artaqua. You know the address.
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This is the recognized Web Page for the Shire of Mountain Freehold of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. This page was last updated on Thursday, February 28, 2008. The maintainer of this page is Alaxandar an Chobhlaigh mac Lochloinn, ( alaxandr@mountainfreehold.org ). This page is not a corporate publication of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc., and does not delineate SCA policies. In cases of conflict with printed versions of material presented on this page or its links, the dispute will be decided in favor of the printed version.
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